Precious Metals Guide: Understanding Gold, Platinum & More

When choosing metals for fine jewellery, consider weight, appearance, durability, and ease of maintenance. However, when shopping for fine jewellery for the first time, you may feel lost by descriptions of 18K gold, white gold, rose gold, and platinum.

The description may state that 18K gold is better than 14K, that platinum is the same as white gold, or that both 14K and 18K gold can be white gold. How do you choose the best metal for your purchase?

Taniah Jewellery has put together this guide to help you identify the most useful differences in fine jewellery, so you no longer have to shop in the dark...

Precious Metals at a Glance

No single precious metal is “best.” The right choice comes down to which appearance you like best, how you wear your jewellery, and what you prioritise.

First, What Makes a Metal “Precious”?

On their own, precious metals are naturally occurring, rare, and prized; they have several practical and ornamental applications, including use in fine jewellery. For fine jewellery, gold and platinum are the main options.

Pure gold is soft, so jewellery typically uses gold alloys. Platinum jewellery also uses alloys, but for higher percentages of platinum.

This means jewellery is rarely made from pure gold.

Gold: One Metal, Different Colours

Gold is yellow; however, jewellery colours can vary from gold's yellow due to combinations of other metals.

Gold colours that are most noticeable include:

• Yellow gold: warm and traditional
• White gold: cool and bright
• Rose gold: warm with a pink or blush tone

The colour of gold does not relate to the purity of gold.

This is where karat comes in.

Understanding Gold Karat

Karat (K) indicates the proportion of pure gold in a gold alloy.

For example:

The remaining percentage consists of other metals used to create the alloy.

 So, 24 karat gold is 100% pure gold. 18K gold is purer than 14K gold. This is not always relevant when deciding which gold to buy for jewellery.

Softer jewellery can be made from higher-purity gold, though, depending on the metals us...

Yellow Gold

Yellow gold has a colour closest to gold's warm colour.

People often buy yellow gold jewellery, specifically engagement rings and wedding bands, because it preserves a classic look.

Why people choose yellow gold

• Warm, classic appearance
• Timeless style
• Works well with many diamond shapes
• Available in different karats
• Does not require a coloured surface coating to create its yellow appearance

The karat you choose can affect the colour of your gold, so think about what jewellery you want to get, and what you prefer aesthetically.

18K yellow gold, for instance, contains more gold than 14K yellow gold and is generally a bit richer looking.

White Gold

White gold is gold modified to appear white, but unlike yellow gold, it must be modified because gold is naturally yellow. This is where the term gold alloy comes in. Many white gold jewellery pieces are treated with rhodium plating to create a bright white surface.

Why white gold is a popular choice

• Bright, contemporary appearance
• Complements diamonds and other gemstones
• Suitable for classic and modern designs
• Different gold purities available
  

What is rhodium plating?

Rhodium is a bright white metal that is used to plate white gold.

With regular use, friction or scratching, the plating can be removed. Depending on use, jewellery may eventually require refurbishing to replace white plating with a brighter finish.

This is the main difference between white gold and platinum.

Rose Gold

Rose gold has a pink or blush hue.

The metals used to create the gold alloy give colour, and copper creates the gold’s pink tint. True pink gold isn't found naturally and is considered a gold alloy.

Why people choose rose gold.

• The colour is warm and unique.
• Romantic appearance
• Pairs well with various diamond or gemstone colours
• A different look with no ring redesign

Customers should not expect absolute consistency in the shade of pink gold, as it depends on the gold alloy.

Rose gold helps us understand that gold colour and gold purity are completely different qualities. 

An 18K rose gold ring and an 18K yellow gold ring can have the same gold purity, but differ completely in colour.

Platinum: Naturally White, Naturally Different

Platinum proudly boasts its naturally white precious metal, which distinguishes it from white gold.

Jewellery-grade platinum is typically made with a high proportion of platinum, commonly around 90–95%.

Unlike white gold, platinum does not need rhodium plating to show its natural white colour.

What makes platinum distinctive?

High purity
Platinum jewellery has a very high platinum content.

Dense and substantial
Platinum has a very high density.

Naturally white
Unlike white gold, platinum has no rhodium surface layer.

Durable
Platinum is well suited for jewellery meant to be worn often.

Patina over time
Instead of losing its surface plating, platinum develops quite an attractive patina.

Some find platinum's ever-changing textures and finishes an important part of its character, while others feel the need to polish it.

Platinum vs White Gold: What’s the Difference?

Metals can look very similar when new, but they differ in many ways. Here are some of their characteristics.

Taniah Jewellery's current comparison similarly distinguishes platinum and white gold by composition, weight, durability, maintenance, and price.

Which should you choose?

Platinum may suit you if you prefer:

• A naturally white metal
• High purity
• A substantial feel
• Minimal reliance on surface plating

 White gold may suit you if you prefer:

• A bright white appearance (Can be achieved via Rhodium Plating)
• A lighter feel
• The characteristics of gold
• More flexibility in gold karat options (14K vs. 18K Gold)

Neither holds an advantage over the other. It depends more on your preferences.

14K or 18K Gold?

This is one of the first questions you will come across when selecting gold jewellery.

14K Gold

It is about 58.5% pure.

It has a richer gold appearance, but is less durable than higher-karat gold.

18K Gold

It contains about 75% pure gold.

It has a higher gold content and generally has a richer appearance, but it is also softer than lower-karat gold.

The simple comparison

Choose 14K if you prioritise: a harder gold alloy and everyday practicality.

Choose 18K if you prioritise: higher gold content and a richer gold appearance.

Consider the design and how you'll wear the jewellery.

Which Metal Works With Your Style?

Rather than asking which precious metal is “best”, consider what you want your jewellery to look and feel like.

For a warm, traditional appearance

Yellow gold offers a classic and timeless look.

For a soft, romantic colour

Rose gold offers a distinctive pink-toned appearance.

For a bright white appearance

White gold offers a cool contemporary look.

For naturally white precious metal

Platinum is naturally silvery-white and does not require rhodium plating.

For a substantial feel

Platinum is denser than gold and can feel heavier on the finger.

Metal and Diamond: How Do They Work Together?

In the design of a ring, a metal can create a diamond’s or gemstone’s appearance.

White metals, like platinum and white gold, give a diamond a neutral appearance.

This is not to say one metal makes a diamond’s appearance better than the next. Rather, the combination of the metal and gemstone creates the jewellery.

The choice you are making, then, is whether you want the metal to be a quiet background to the design, or if you want to make the metal part of the jewellery’s visual character. 

For more on selecting the diamond itself, look at Taniah Jewellery's guide to the 4Cs of Diamonds.

What If You Have Metal Sensitivity?

A few things to consider, and if you are shopping for rings to wear daily, metal sensitivity should be one of them.

The exact engineering matters.

Some white gold alloys contain nickel, a common culprit for metal sensitivity. Many consider platinum a safe option for metal sensitivity, as most jewellery-grade platinum is of very high purity. Still, sensitivity and allergies are case-by-case, so keep that in mind.

Rose gold alloys contain copper.

When in doubt with metal sensitivity, and, as always, most importantly, if you have an allergy or sensitivity, ask your jeweller about the specific alloy.

Reading Jewellery Marks

Often, when you look inside a ring band or other piece of jewellery, you might see some marks.

These marks indicate the metal's purity.

For example:

• 375 = 37.5% gold, commonly 9K
• 585 = 58.5% gold, commonly 14K
• 750 = 75% gold, commonly 18K
• 950 = 95% platinum

Of course, the specific system for hallmarking a piece of jewellery might vary. These numbers can at least give you a sense of the precious metal content contained in the piece, if not the specific percentage.

These marks can help you decipher the jewellery's specifications.

A Better Way to Choose Your Metal

Instead of starting with “Which metal is best?” consider four other questions:

1. What colour do I prefer?

Warm yellow, pink-toned or bright white?

2. How will I wear the jewellery?

Every day, occasionally or mainly for special occasions?

3. How do I feel about maintenance?

For example, white gold may require rhodium replating over time, while platinum develops a patina instead.

4. What feels right on my hand?

Personal preference on looks, weight and comfort matters. It can help to try on metals and see the differences in person.

If you are considering purchasing an engagement ring, take a look at our Engagement Ring Guide. It helps you consider the metal alongside the diamond and the setting.

Precious Metal Care

Selecting the metal is the first step, but how it maintains its appearance depends on the care it receives afterwards.

The care different metals need can vary, particularly with finishes and surface treatments.

For example, white gold needs rhodium plating at some point, and platinum tends to develop a patina.

Cleaning methods also vary depending on the metal, gemstones, and type of jewellery.

For detailed suggestions on how to clean, store and protect your jewellery, see Taniah Jewellery's Ring Care Guide.

Common Questions About Precious Metals

Is rose gold real gold?

Yes, rose gold is real gold alloyed with other metals (especially copper) to achieve its warm pink colour.

Is white gold naturally white?

No. Pure gold is naturally yellow. White gold is an alloy of gold mixed with other metals, and many white gold pieces are enhanced with rhodium plating to achieve a brighter white colour.

Is platinum better than white gold?

There isn't a definitive answer. Both white gold and platinum differ in composition, weight, purity, and maintenance. So different factors come into play when deciding which is better.

Is 18K gold better than 14K gold?

It depends. 14K gold will likely have more alloying metal and be harder, while 18K gold will have more pure gold.

Does white gold need to be replated?

Eventually, white gold, especially rhodium-plated gold, will need to be replated as the surface will erode. This will happen sooner with jewellery that gets more use.

Which precious metal is best for an engagement ring?

This again depends on the appearance you want. It also depends on your budget, how active your lifestyle is, what you want the maintenance to be like, and how you want the jewellery to coordinate with the other jewellery you wear.

What does 750 mean on gold jewellery?

A 750 mark generally means that the gold in the jewellery is at least 75% pure, which is equivalent to 18K gold.

The Right Metal Is the One That Fits You

Think about colour, alloy purity, durability, maintenance, style, and most importantly, comfort. What combination of these factors is most important to you?

Yellow gold brings warmth and tradition.
White gold offers a bright, contemporary appearance.
Rose gold adds a distinctive blush tone.
Platinum provides a naturally white, dense and high-purity option.

Understanding these differences makes choosing jewellery much easier.

Knowing the backstory of what you're buying is key to appreciating it. Knowing what your jewellery is made of is an important step in understanding why you choose a particular design.

At Taniah Jewellery, understanding the materials behind your jewellery helps you make a choice that feels considered, personal and right for you.

Where to Go Next

Choosing an Engagement Ring?

Take a look at our Engagement Ring Guide to help you to pick your diamond, setting and engagement ring metal. 

Want to Understand Ring Construction?

Check out our Ring Design Basics to learn about setting design and the various components of a ring. 

Already Own Your Ring?

Take a look at the Ring Care Guide to learn about caring for your ring and how to protect it daily. 

Choosing a Diamond?

See our guide to understanding the 4 Cs, including cut, colour, clarity, and carat weight.